Markets of the Périgord Noir, from Sarlat to the night markets

Twice a week, all year round, the stalls fill the Place de la Liberté and the lanes around the cathedral. Foie gras and confit, walnuts and walnut oil, cabécou goat's cheese, Périgord strawberries in spring, ceps in autumn: it is the shop window of the whole Périgord Noir. Saturday is the liveliest; come early to enjoy the producers before the crowds, then have a coffee on a terrace. From the villa, it is a ten-minute walk.

In the heart of the medieval town, the former Sainte-Marie church now houses a covered market, redesigned by the architect Jean Nouvel. Producers and food artisans sell there every day in season, and four mornings a week from November to mid-April. Handy for stocking up on local produce on days without the big market. Don't miss the panoramic lift in the bell tower: it takes you up above the town for a 360° view over its stone-slab roofs, its bell tower and the surrounding countryside (a visit run by the tourist office).

In winter, the black Périgord truffle has its own market, on Saturday mornings from December to February. People come for the aroma as much as for the shopping, listening to the growers talk about their harvest. A lovely reason to stay at the villa out of season, by the wood-burning stove.

Every Sunday morning, Saint-Cyprien hosts a market much loved by locals and visitors alike, at the foot of its great abbey church. Fruit and vegetables, poultry, cheese, bread, preserves and local wines: the perfect market to fill the basket for Sunday lunch. From mid-June to mid-September, a second market is held on Wednesdays.

Along the Dordogne, each village has its market day: Cénac on Tuesday, Domme on Thursday, La Roque-Gageac on Friday (May to September) and Beynac on Monday (mid-June to mid-September), with its local producers. Small, friendly markets, perfect for shopping while discovering a village.

Montignac on Wednesday and Saturday, Le Bugue on Tuesday and Saturday, Les Eyzies on Monday from April to October: easy to pair a market with a visit to Lascaux IV, the National Museum of Prehistory or one of the valley's caves.

From late June to early September, the villages hold night markets: producers cook on the spot, everyone puts together their own plate (duck breast, chips fried in duck fat, cheese, strawberries…) and dinner is shared at long tables, often with live music. Places and days change every summer: the tourist office publishes the programme each week.